The cheaper DB Link wire at $1.99 a foot, with less wire and more aluminum, is as effective as a decent 8 gauge wire. You can see the Stinger wire has more strands and they are tighter and more compact. The weight difference has a lot to do with the wire being 100 percent oxygen free copper, which is heavier than aluminum, and also has to do with having more strands of wire. A decent 4 gauge kit with RCA, fuse, fuse holder and 20 feet of wire usually weights around 8-10 lbs. A good quality amp kit should be pretty heavy. The cheap DB Link wire is feather light compared to the real copper wire. The other tell tale quality difference which you can’t really see, but can easily feel, is the weight of the wire. The cheaper stuff has much less shielding. The other important thing to note here is the difference in the shielding. This means the cheaper power wire is not capable of carrying as much current as the Stinger power wire which is 100 % oxygen free copper wire. Maybe you haven’t heard, but aluminum is not nearly as conductive as copper. That silver wire you see mixed in with the copper is aluminum. The cheap amplifier wiring has some silver mixed in the strands. What’s the difference? Why should you buy the more expensive amplifier power wire? Take a closer look at it. The other is DB Link 4 gauge and it runs $1.99 a foot. One is Stinger 4 gauge wire and it runs $2.99 a foot. Over 1500 watts RMS you need 0 gauge and a few other wiring and vehicle upgrades. From 1000 – 1500 watts RMS you should be running 2 gauge. In the 500 – 1000 watt RMS range, you want to run 4 gauge. For up to 500 watts RMS, 8 gauge is sufficient. Many amp kits are labeled with wattage ratings on them to entice you to buy, but what’s actually on the package is not always the whole story. How do you know what gauge wire you need for your amp? What size fuse do you need for your inline fuse holder? How much wire do you need? So you just got your amp and your sub and now you need to hook it up. How the quality of your car audio amplifier wiring can effect your whole car stereo system.Įstimated read time: 6 minutes 15 seconds. Determining the proper gauge wire for your amplifier, fuse size, wire length and more. In turn, you should be able to eliminate or minimize the common systems of a stressed electrical system.Notice the Stinger 4 gauge wire has more copper tone and a thicker sleeve How to buy the right amplifier wiring kit for your car audio amplifier. Once all three of your new wires have been installed as described, your big 3 upgrade is complete! This new wiring will improve your electrical system’s handling of the current flow to your stereo components. From there, connect your new wire to the engine block and chassis securely. Remove your OEM ground wire and clean up the existing connection points if they look like they need it. The location of this will vary from car to car. Locate your OEM ground wire on the engine block and follow it to the chassis. Install the Ground Wire from the Engine Block to the Chassis Route the wire to your new grounding point on the chassis and secure it. Once decided, connect your new ground wire to the negative battery terminal and secure it in place. ![]() ![]() You may need to also need a wire wheel to scrape the paint off, making the metal bare. If a solid, bare metal area is not readily available or ideal, you can drill your own hole in the chassis and use your own stainless steel nut and bolt to attach the wire. Install the Chassis Ground Wire to the Negative Battery Terminalĭecide on where you want your ground wire to attach to the chassis. Secure the wire to the battery and add zip ties to keep the install clean. ![]() Next, route your newly connected wire to the battery’s positive terminal. Connect your new wire to that same post, leaving the existing wire on as well. Once located, look for the power wire that is running from the alternator to the battery or fuse box. Some vehicles will have covers that may need to be removed in order to get a better view of the alternator and wiring. Install the Charging Wire from the Alternator to the Battery Positive Terminalįirst, locate your alternator. This upgrade entails replacing the three main cables in your electrical system with 4 gauge or 1/0 wires.īefore starting, disconnect the negative terminal off of your battery to prevent shorting out or damaging any electrical components. These are signs a Big 3 upgrade is needed.Ī upgrade will allow more current flow to all of your stereo components, improving your electrical system by ensuring more consistent voltage. For example, many with car audio systems may notice their headlights dimming or their windows rolling down slower than usual. Amplifiers, subwoofers, speakers, and other components pull power and can stress your electrical components. For many car audio systems, a Big 3 upgrade can vastly improve your vehicle’s electrical system.
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